At a glance
This hill station gazes down on the rich, coffee-covered slopes of Malnad
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About the city
The way to Kemmannagundi is planted with enough compelling road signs to waylay innocent tourists into some other, seemingly more tempting holiday. But if you stick firmly to your path, skirting the tangential charms of Halebid and Belur, the Chikmagalur coffee estates, and the distant road to Kudremukh, you will reach a hill that was once preferred by a monarch. Kemmannagundi is actually a single, secluded hill that's been successfully posing as a hill station ever since King Krishna Rajendra Wodeyar IV made it his summer haven in 1932 from the mercurial British, who kept giving and snatching Mysore from his family. Kemmannagundi's compact charms views, waterfalls, gardens, all in a day's work make it one of the most fun-filled short holidays from Bangalore. Despite the fact that it has few amenities, and food that breaks the dam on hostel memories, every Saturday morning nuclear families and those loose electrons called college students burst upon this royal getaway that still carries the grand title of Krishna Rajendra Hill Station.
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How to reach
Road:
This is the best way to get to Kemmannagundi, a beautiful drive up the Baba Budan Hills from Chikmagalur
Rail:
Nearest railhead: Birur (35 km/ 1 1/4 hrs) Best option TO Janshatabdi Express (dep: Bangalore City 6 am; arr: Birur 9.03 am). Taxi to Kemmannagundi is Rs 400 Best option FROM Chalukya Express (dep: Birur 5.55 pm; arr: Bangalore City 10.20 pm)
Journey Time
Road:
6 hrs
Rail:
3 hrs + road 1 1/4 hrs
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Distances
295 km North West from Bangalore
From Bangalore
NH4 to Nelamangala
NH48 to Hassan via Kunigal
State road to Kemmannagundi via Chikmagalur and the Baba Budanagiri Hills
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Best Seasons
Just after the rains, from mid-September to February
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Places in and around
The 58-km ride from Chikmagalur to Kemmannagundi is like watching a nature programme on a shaky TV screen. Views of sprawling coffee estates shaded with silver oaks stream through a car window as you bounce along on potholes. This last leg of the journey will really make you appreciate the first sight of the Horticulture Department Guest House. It's thick with flowers that invite you to put your feet up and unwind in the garden over a cup of tea. And if you feel like just lolling, you can easily leave all the sightseeing for the next day because a day is all that's needed to deservingly put on your been there, done that T-shirt in Kemmannagundi. Still, the 4,705-ft high Krishna Rajendra Hill manages to provide its visitors almost everything a full-fledged hill station does. There's the Rock Garden within the guest house premises maintained by the Horticulture Department. The Kallahati Falls (10 km), also known as Kalahasti Falls, descend from a height of 122 m and are quite pretty. It's a lovely place for a picnic lunch. You could take a short trek to the Hebbe Falls (8 km), but don't attempt swimming here. They are even more spectacular, with the water cascading down from over 500 ft. And then there's Z Point, a good place from which to watch sunsets. Garden timings 8 am to noon, 2-6 pm
Trekking
Mohammed Aseem (Tel: 9844168948), who works for LEAF, an environmental agency, is the activity coordinator for the Taj in Chikmagalur and also organises treks, coffee plantation visits and other activities for tourists.
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