At a glance Kakkabe lies at the base of the Western Ghats in southern Kodagu.
About the city Thadiyendamol stood tall. For centuries, he had been the lone sentinel, towering over lesser peaks and serving as a landmark to seafarers. The tallest peak in Coorg, on a clear day he could see as far as the coast. Over time, he had seen spices from Coorg being exchanged for salt from Kerala. He had observed also the subsequent exchange of culture. How the open shrines of Coorg acquired the typical Kerala roof. And he watched the rain god Igguthappa, along with his brothers and sister, migrate from Kerala to Kodagu. Soon after, the sky darkened. Igguthappa had smiled. Alongwith him, he had brought rain. A Malabar whistling thrush, his blue-black coat ruffled, was caught unawares by the fat drops of rain and his melodious off-key whistle seemed trapped inside his throat. Thadiyendamol had covered himself in a giant white cloak and disappeared from view.... Now it is just you, the amplified sounds of a rainforest come alive and a faint mountain trail, with no end in sight. Not too long ago, this little village in the heart of the south-west Kodagu rainforest used to be the largest honey producer in South-East Asia. But a chance virus wiped out the resident bee population. What you lose on the swings, you gain on the roundabouts. This crisis deflected attention to something more than honey the bountiful nature that produced it. Birdwatchers and backpackers soon realised that there's more to Kodagu than Madikeri. And proceeded to march through the clouds to rediscover Thadiyendamol, and the sleepy Kodava village of Kakkabe in the shadow of the great mountain.
How to reach Road: After Srirangapatna, take the bypass to Hunsur via Ranganathittu. About 4 km after Hunsur, take the left fork towards Virajpet via Titimati, Gonikoppal and Hathur. From Virajpet, take the road to Kakkabe via Kadanga, Karada, Cheyyandane and Kabbinakad. Journey Time Road: 6 1/2 hrs
Distances 248 km South West from Bangalore From Bangalore SH17 to Srirangapatna SH17 Bypass via Ranganathittu to Hunsur SH88A to Gonikoppal SH88B to Virajpet District road to Kakkabe via Kadanga, Cheyyandane and Kabbinakad
Best Seasons Kakkabe is accessible throughout the year, but avoid July-August when the rainforest receives heavy showers and teems with leeches. The post-monsoon months are extremely rewarding for birdwatchers as the birds return to their usual perches. Ideal season is between September and May.
Places in and around With a landscape not tarnished by Coca-Cola signboards, Kakkabe is nature's laboratory. It can transform a boring natural science class into an exciting practical tour. It offers interactive modules on the formation of clouds, the manufacture of honey, and the process of cross-pollination with waterfalls, gurgling streams and treks as your break periods. The heavy rainforest cover gives the region a rich bounty of rare orchids, plants and birds. Scenic treks take you to Mallamma Betta, Soma Male and Kabbe Pass, from where you can spy sun-kissed clouds caressing Kerala's hills. However, the prize catch is undoubtedly Thadiyendamol. Thadiyendamol There's something awe-inspiring about the name itself. Derived from Malayalam to loosely mean Im the Tallest (thadi means broad, yenda is mine and mol is high), Thadiyendamol, at 5,730 ft, is the highest peak in Coorg and the second highest in Karnataka after Mullaiyanagiri in the Baba Budan Range. Thadiyendamol lures trekkers with the promise of a glimpse of the coastline on a clear day. For the most part the trek is gentle, but the last quarter is a steep climb. The 21/2-hr climb one-way from Palace Estate is shorter, but the longer 31/2-hr climb from Honey Valley passes through thick rainforest and more scenic terrain. Igguthappa Temple Whoever said 'there's no such thing as a free lunch, has obviously not been to the Igguthappa Temple (Tel: 08272-238400). Not only are you handed prasad on a platter, you are given a three-course meal of payasam, rice and two types of sambar with wild mango pickle to boot. Worshipped as one who gives grain (iggu is Kodava for grain, thappa means 'to give), Igguthappa is the de facto rain god. Such are his powers that he has expanded his portfolio to include any wish that you ask for an engineering degree, a child, or the girl of your dreams! Thousands gather for the Kaliyarchi Festival in March when the god is taken on a procession to the top of Mallama Betta and reinstalled in the temple, followed by various ceremonial dances. The official date of the harvest festival Huthri is also determined here. The temple is 21/2 km from the jeep stand at Kakkabe. Get onto the road to Madikeri. Take a left under the arch. After a kilometre, take a right to the temple that passes through the arch. Timings 9.30 am to 1.30 pm Puja timings 11.30 am to 12.30 pm Nalnad Palace Built in 1792 by Doddaveeraraja, Nalnad Palace served as the royal hunting lodge and summer home of the Kodava kings. Since there were four villages in the vicinity, the place was called Nal-nadu, a Kodava word which over time got shortened to Nalnad. Call it what you will, a palace it isn't. A double-storey structure with a conical roof, the decrepit building has intricate wooden friezes and wall murals. The local Kapala tribals were brought here by the king from Kerala they are originally believed to be from Ethiopia to look after (pala) the palace. Located on the road to Virajpet, 31/2 km from Kakkabe, the palace is quite neglected, with just a caretaker to look after it. He will let you into the palace. Entry is free. Rock-climbing and treks A 1-hr walk to Nilakandi Waterfall, 3 km away, is one of the shorter treks. Apart from barking deer, pangolin, flying squirrel, it's a good place to spot the honey-loving South Indian marten. There are many other routes of varying difficulty. Suresh Chengappa of Honey Valley has marked out 28 of them. Palace Estate has the ideal terrain for trekking, streams and a 50-ft waterfall. Experienced guides are available.