At a glance 80 km east of Madurai and 80 km south of Trichy. Chettinad is a closely-knit cluster of villages that occupies a stretch of scrubby flatlands seemingly in the middle of nowhere .
About the city Karaikudi can lay claim to being the hub of the cluster of 75 villages that now survive from the original 96. They are broadly referred to as Chettinad (a delicious memory associated with, mostly and unfortunately, only chicken; a forgivable misconception this story seeks to dispel). Karaikudi is a hinterland junction that gives the first and false impression of being a typical quasi-town, its name forgotten even before a traveller can figure out the pronunciation from the blur of fleeting milestones. But wait, and linger. Dusty streets, unlined and unmarked, lead you through what were surely among the most immaculately tended garden paths this side of the sub-continent. Everywhere there is evidence of adversities overcome by grit, daring and imagination. Chettinad culture is without parallel. Wood is worked in massive doorways that showcase the most dexterous carvings. Gold and silver jewellery is sublime in form and generous in volume. Refined crafts give the arid region a stunning foil. Hospitality is legendary and appears to be automatically inherited. Native looms add splendid colour. Business acumen has left an unparalleled legacy of arts patronage and sustained philan'thropy. Grand mansions and beautiful temples rise like mirages, only they are very real. The cuisine is so ambrosial that its popularity has already made it the fourth compulsory victim in every joint which simultaneously serves Chinese-Mughlai-South Indian. Here is a heritage that is facing a decline, but continues to reflect the gumption typical to the community that lent its name to this land: the Chettiars. As early as the 11th and 12th centuries AD, the Chettiars followed the shipping routes of the Pandya Empire. Trade in salt, silks, teak, spices, timber and precious gemstones prospered. Enterprise and initiative made them the leading merchant capitalists of South India. Proximity to the rulers brought them land rights in and around Pudukottai and Sivaganga. They became the Nagarathars (town-dwellers, also meaning sophisticated, a nomenclature used interchangeably with Chettiar) and their grand homes came to be called the nattukottais (literally, land fortresses).
How to reach Road: A 9-hr drive from Chennai. Approx 11 hrs (485 km) from Bangalore take NH7 to Karur, then turn left turn on NH67 to Trichy, move south on NH210 to Karaikudi. Taxi from Chennai costs approx Rs 2,800 and from Bangalore Rs 3,500. Luxury coaches (Rs 320) ply on this route at night. Try KPN Travels (Tel: 044-28192614) or Praveen Travels (Tel: 28193538). Rail: Karaikudi Jn, connected to Chennai (Tambaram Jn). Or catch an overnight train to Trichy or Madurai. Then, take a passenger train (3 hrs) to Karaikudi, or bus it in 2 hrs (Rs 50 approx). Air: Nearest airport: Madurai (80 km/ 2 hrs), connected to Chennai, Bangalore, Trichy, Coimbatore and Mumbai. Taxis to Karaikudi charge Rs 1,000 approx .
Distances 446 km South West from Chennai From Chennai East Coast Road to Pondy NH45A to Sirkazhi via Cuddalore and Chidambaram SH to Pudukottai via Kumbakonam and Thanjavur NH210 to Chettinad/ Karaikudi via Thirumayam.
Best Seasons November to early February is best. Avoid the hot summer months.
Places in and around No one in Chettinad anticipated tourists. Today, however, some Chettinad mansions have opened their doors to travellers. Over two to three days, do a tour of the magnificent mansions around Karaikudi. Visit the temples, shop for crafts and learn about an evolved culture. Magnificent Mansions Many of the Chettiar mansions are so majestically built that they straddle more than one block, or sprawl across two parallel streets, each having a main entrance. They are sometimes even bestowed with two postal addresses! Two or three storeys tall, set beyond imposing gates, they have sloping red-tiled roofs, most in a state of disrepair. The faades are embellished with extravagant statues and gargoyles, featuring an unusual but not unpleasant medley of the Hindu gods and goddesses alongside European figurines. The grand door opens to a huge home designed around two or three sunlit courtyards. In keeping with old-world tradition of hospitality, the front door is usually kept open through the day, closed only when the family retires for the night. The floor plan allows you to see right to the other end of the building in one awestruck sweep of the eye. The interiors face inward into courtyards. Relax awhile on the thinnai, the pillared platform abutting the main door. This was where the men of the house would enjoy a tumbler of coffee; it was also where a wayfarer would be allowed to sleep in days when the fastest mode of transport was a bullock cart. It's a good vantage point from which to take in the aesthetics of Chettiar homes granite and marble pillars, polished and carved Burmese teak, superb decorative tiles, Thanjavur paintings, and crystal chandeliers. Structure and proportion are in perfect balance. How did they get it all so right The interiors use traditional athangudi tiles (named after the village that has been traditionally making them) in natural dyes shaded indigo and green, sometimes crimson. The walls are plastered in a mixture of powdered shells, lime, jaggery and spices, including gallnut (myrobalan). The technique is dying and in need of support. It keeps the interior of the house cool and lasts a lifetime, often more. The muted shine comes from egg whites! Footloose tours A guided tour of the Chettinad mansions that have opened their doors to the public is possible only through the hotels in this region. Guests of the boutique hotel, The Bangala in Karaikudi, get the best guided tours of the nattukottais. Chettiar Temples As the Chettiars became wealthy, they began to build. Their first koil or temple was built at Illayatrangudi. Subsequently, they built or adopted eight other temples in neighbouring villages. Most of their temples are dedicated to Shiva, Parvati and Ganesha. These ancient temples are open to all.