Places in and around
Chakrata is laid back and slow. It's almost as if time stands still in its narrow bazaar and teashops, where groups of elderly Jaunsaris discuss politics over endless cups of sugary tea. Chakrata is ideal for those who want to do nothing more than relax in the mountain sunshine or, at most, tackle one of the many treks around the area. This area's charm lies in its unspoilt Himalayan beauty. The town has a magnificent view of the greater Himalayas and everything around is delightfully green deodar, Himalayan oak and rhododendron cover the hills. The only built-up area, and there's very little of it, consists of some of the prettiest colonial army buildings, green- and red-roofed gables complete with rambling roses and wisteria. The town is built all along a ridge with a tiny bazaar in the centre. A Mall that makes a perfect, forested ramble connects the entire length. Jaunsar, as the area surrounding Chakrata is called, is as beautiful as it is interesting. The local Jaunsaris have rather interesting matrimonial customs polygamy and polyandry are practised and the usual Hindu festivals are celebrated with some bizarre local adaptations, with buffalo sacrifices giving certain festivals a particularly gory touch. Apart from the army establishments, Chakrata has little else to recommend it but the natural beauty of its surroundings. There are some forest department buildings that are of interest, in particular the DFO's residence, a beautiful example of colonial architecture.
However, don't get lulled into believing that there's absolutely nothing to do in Chakrata. The walks are beautiful the Tiger Falls, at 312 ft the second highest in India, is a pleasant 5-km walk away, just one of the many walks around. Take in the views of the Bandar Poonch Massif and the Swarga and Rohini peaks, among others, from Chilmiri Neck. If you are the type who can't stay still, there are plenty of day trips. Short drives in any direction will bring you to terrific Jaunsari locations.
Deoban
At a height of 9,400 ft, Deoban is a dramatic 13-km drive away from Chakrata. High on the top of the mountain to the north of Chakrata lies a sensational clearing in the forest where, set atop the most beautiful alpine meadow is an old, British-built Forest Rest House (FRH). The 13-km drive has to be one of the finest (and most hair-raising) hill routes ever. The road is narrow and would be best negotiated with a four-wheel drive. The initial part of the drive clings precipitously to the edge of some sheer rocky cliffs. It is here that our Special Forces conduct their training and you will notice rock faces on which these intrepid soldiers learn their mountaineering skills. Viewing them from a civilian perspective, all you can do is stare in amazement and appreciate the skill of the Special Forces. The views along this stretch are grand. The entire Greater Himalayan Range lies stretched along the horizon. You might as well keep your eyes firmly fixed on the peaks as one look down will give you a serious attack of vertigo. As you travel upward, you enter a deep, dark deodar forest, which finally clears to reveal a vast green meadow. Sitting proudly on top of this meadow is a large bungalow built over a hundred years ago. The Deoban Forest Rest House (Tel: 0135-2745779; Tariff: Indians Rs 300-500, foreigners Rs 900-1,500) could be a super place to spend a couple of nights but a chat with the chowkidar will reveal that there is no water or electricity in the bungalow. There is, however, a stream approximately 300 yards down the hill and, if you are feeling particularly adventurous, you can make this a night halt. It would be great if you are carrying tents, as the entire meadow is ideal for campsites. Warning: Since you are travelling into the army training area, you will have to get a permit made out at the forest barrier when you leave Chakrata. In case you plan to travel with foreigners, bear in mind that they will require a special permit from the Home Ministry to enter the area
Ram Tal
Kids will enjoy a visit to the Ram Tal Horticultural Garden on the Mussoorie Road, with its apple garden and pond.
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